Our Time in Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We are grateful this is true as that protects the 32 historic temples and other beautiful buildings from being torn down for modern buildings. This small town is nestled primarily where 2 rivers, the Mekong and its tributary the Nam Khan meet and there are jungle covered mountains all around. The setting alone enticed us to stay here 8 days, somewhat longer than we originally thought.

One day, we became aware that the Laos flag, red, blue and white, never flies alone. The red and gold Communist flag accompanies it. One person we asked about this summed it up by saying, “The Communist flag is the government flag and the Laos flag is the people’s flag.” In the mid ‘70;s, the new Communist government wanted to close the Buddhist temples in the country. Buddhism, however, was too important to the people to let that happen. Hence, the government softened allowing the temples to remain. It’s evident Buddhism is an everyday part of the life of the Laos people. At each temple we visited there were offerings at the feet of the Buddha statues (offerings were also seen at businesses and homes) and there were monks of all ages present with their vibrant orange robes hanging to dry in the background.

Mount Phousi, a tall hill in the center of town, was our destination on two different days. To reach That (Laos for stupa or religious monument often containing Buddha relics) Chomsi was our first goal. The many old steps with an equally old long dragon railing were climbed fairly easily. For us, the interest we had in the temple and That at the top was eclipsed by the beauty and revelations of the 360 degree view of the city, rivers and surroundings.

Our guest house was close to the Nam Kan River. We walked above it everyday especially interested in the activity of the children playing in and near the water and marveling at the manicured gardens on the opposite bank. There was a bamboo bridge near us and another at the north end of the peninsula. The latter we discovered while exploring an unknown area. Following a sign with arrows to a village where paper was made and weavers worked, we came down a hill to our 2nd bamboo bridge. The village was still a walk on paths beside the river and through the jungle and it was surprisingly untouched except for a handful of shops in front of women’s homes.

On other walks we discovered an art gallery, a fresh market, many guest houses, and a temple or two down a brick or dirt lane. Seeing rice cakes and handmade paper drying on screens, women cooking meals for sale under covered extentions to their homes, shops with beautiful antiques and more temples kept us walking and walking.

We will miss this town and the leisure we experienced here but we are headed north to an even smaller town. A report on that will come later.

Merry Christmas.
Love and Peace to all of you,
Rajiv and Marianne